I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. the fiber(s) used. No twist enters the fiber by itself. The best ways to get in touch with me are by messaging me on Ravelry or by sending an email to abeeinthebonnet (at) gmail (dot) com. Annie. How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? Very well spot on! Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. www.imperialyarn.com. They will drape differently, hold shape differently, feel differently to the hand, and interact differently with the light. Desalegn Atalie. Eg: gabardine. Because the yarn is smoother than woolen yarn, it will be less itchy when worn next to the skin, provided the fibers are not too coarse for comfort. Generally, the higher the ply number the thicker the yarn. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. December 2014 Other linen yarns are wet spun linen and dry spun linen. After picking, the fiber goes through acarder, a machine with several rolling cylinders covered in metal teeth. June 2013 What is the Difference Between Worsted and Woolen Spun Yarns? Yours has been my favorite series to date Im learning so much and feel like I can make better choices! Gauge: 5.5 sts / inch on US 6. I was moving too quickly on that one, clearly. September 2016 A fluffy woolen wool blanket If your gauge is too loose (that is, fewer stitches per inch than it should have), try going down a needle size. Long draw is for making a woolen-spun yarn. Required fields are marked *. You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. October 2014 The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. August 2013 Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Theyre the same weight, but theyre not made the same way. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. Although there is broad agreement about the extremes of woolen and worsted spinning, no firm consensus exists on what precisely defines the vast middle. Does this happen with all yarns? Worsted yarn is a smooth and compact yarn that is spun from long staple fibers. (See my Jamieson & Smith Jumper Weight vs a worsted crepe swatch.) You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. Now, I finally understand what it really means and how it will impact my future knitting! Spun In Maine. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. This page is a godsend . Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! Another essential characteristic of woolen-spun yarns, according to Respect the Spindle by Abby Franquemont, is that twist is allowed to play an active role in drafting the fiber drafting refers to when the fiber is pulled slightly to open up and lengthen the fiber structure before being twisted. Generally speaking, plant-based materials will be heavier than animal fibers. This is a fantastic article and helped me to understand in the ins and outs so clearly however, even after refreshing Im getting broken links for all the in article photos what happened? The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. Ill choose a woolen spun yarn. These cookies do not store any personal information. Woolen spun yarn is known to be light as air, durable, warm and lofty. Thanks for explaining the difference, it's interesting to see those subtle contrasts between the stitching! Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. Today, Im talking about the last one. This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. 140 yards/50 g. $15.50 each. Its totally fine. Our most popular workhorse yarn is the Heritage two-ply, but if you want even more wear, the Tuffy is an 80/20 blend of wool and nylon. Heritage comes in forty-five colors of the rainbow, including plenty of neutrals and heathers. If you compare those to the recommended yarns details, youll have a better sense of whether the substitution will work. Some yarns are not so obvious. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. August 2018 March 2018 Worsted weight yarn is a 10 ply yarn. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. This means it offers remarkable warmth and lightness and is adaptable in gauge, able to compress to a denser fabric on small needles or bloom to cohere as a gauzy fabric when worked on large needles. I'm glad it was helpful to you! AC Business Ventures LLC, DBA Nitro Knitters. Weaving. Look at the picture that accompanies this section. Thank you! I like to use a pencil. This post of part of my Spinning with a Purpose series, sharing swatches I've created for a. November 2015 Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. If you end up having to make a major substitution, remember that plant fibers tend to be heavier than animal fibers. Safe home and already knitting a scarf . Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. Both woolen and worsted spinning methods make beautiful yarns. October 2017 Thanks for the clear and concise approach I get it now! This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The carder opens up the fiber and blends it evenly, resulting in a thin cloud- or web-like sheet commonly known as abatt. All Rights Reserved. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. I knit swatches of all four yarns in stockinette, moss stitch, and a simple lace stitch, and took close-up comparison photos of the worsted and woolen yarns overlapping. The two main types of yarns are spun yarn and filament yarn. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. In relation to the thinner 1ply yarns Woollen Spun has a crisper feel, whereas the Worsted Spun has more drape and softness. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". The weight makes it great for outerwear, and the texture and structure allow for beautiful felted work. Finally I understand I sorta knew but didnt quite fit it into certain yarns I was knitting on, I always wondered . Very clear explanation of a new topic to me. www.blackeryarns.co.uk, Content: 100% Cormo wool Put-Up: 350 yd [320 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently or machine wash without agitation; dry flat, Elsawool creates both woolen- and worsted-spun yarns, all from the soft wool of purebred Cormo sheep, available in natural undyed colors. If your allergy is very specific (e.g., you cant do wool, but you can do alpaca, or you cant handle linen but youre fine with cotton or bamboo), itll be easier to substitute than if your allergy is more broad (e.g., you cant do any animal fibers at all and have to use plant fibers, or vice versa). There are two yarns, one brown and one light green. When I unplied the yarn and looked at individual strands, I could see a difference and a dead giveaway. Worsted noun. November 2019 Copyright 2023 A Bee In The Bonnet | Bamboo on Trellis Framework by Mediavine, This site uses cookies to improve its performance and to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. (Theres a method to this madness, we promise!). Woolen spun wears like iron without the amount of pilling common to worsted spun yarns. I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. For many projects, it wont make much of a difference if youre switching yarn construction. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. . March 2020 Sometimes, even after all that, you still might not be sure whether the yarn you want to substitute will work for your project, check out other peoples projects. I won't give you all the details, but before finishing there was already a significant difference in diameter; the worsted (dark) measured as 17 WPI, while the woolen (light) measured as 12 WPI. Goodness, though, was it ever the wrong choice for this one. My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? very smartly elaborated the article. SpoinnersAdvent I hope this will help you skip some of the hiccups! Your explanation is great, and reaffirms my decision to purchase your Yarnitecture book awhile back. Combed worsted yarn is superior to carded woolen yarn in strength. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. If either of these fibers is in your yarn, no matter how worsted and smooth it is spunit will become a fuzzy yarn. June 2014 Spinning Check out our worsted woolen spun yarn selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Here, we take a closer look at some of the industrys top woolen-spun yarns. Worsted spun yarns are smoother and have better stitch definition to make your cables and textured stitches pop. Take a look at the picture in this section. BTW, I made a lovely airy lacy quite-warm shawl using reclaimed 100% cashmere of about cobweb weight, that I believe was woolen spun. Your best bet is always to know how to make the substitution yourself. November 2021 There are myriad ways to prepare and spin fleece and fiber into yarn. Great article! It will help a lot in future project planning. Your email address will not be published. To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. Extremely helpful! That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. May 2019 In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Shelter is Brooklyn Tweed's first yarn, and one of the most well-loved - a worsted weight, woolen-spun Targhee-Columbia wool, sourced, dyed, and spun entirely in the USA. They are also warmer because of the airiness. Youve just figured out your yarns WPI. February 2015 The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. Thank you for there explanation. The yarn surface is brighter and cleaner. What Ply is Worsted Weight Yarn? Appreciate the double check. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. If the ratios are close, youre more likely to have a good match for substitution. I ALWAYS substitute my yarns and I know now that my yearn choices are the reason I never seem happy with all my hard work. Snippets is the Saturday newsletter full of MDK news, specials, and first look at new offerings. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. April 2017 The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. Probably both because nothings ever simple ;). As for me, well, I love hearing from people who are working on my patterns and do my best to respond to messages quickly. March 2014 So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! Brilliant. July 2018 www.briggsandlittle.com, Content: 100% American wool Put-Up: 140yd [128 m]/134 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 1720 sts = 4 (10 cm) on sizes 79 (4.55.5 mm) needles, Shelter is a medium-weight yarn that varies in gauge, working differently and beautifully on small to large needles. Im usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. Woolen drafted yarn gives a texture and an overall softness and visual motion to all the stitches, something I like, but occasionally I find some small stitch repeat patterns get lost with woolen yarns. Very good, educational description. August 2019 4/9. I choose to support local and indie yarners and dont mind spending big $$ on yarn if I understand it will fit the intended project. Worsted wools are slick when woven, woolen wools are knitted, crocheted, or woven into softer, fluffier fabric, or fulled fabric. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. Perhaps youve got a fiber allergy and need to switch to a yarn that wont irritate your skin. On Ravelry, you can go to the (Ravelry link) Projects tab on the pattern page to see other versions of the hat knit by other people. Woolen yarn is dense and is often made from the shorter strands of a sheep's fleece. But it made a noticeable difference to the feel of the swatch in my hand. Worsted Spun vs. Woolen Spun. According to Clara Parkess The Knitters Book of Yarn, spinning or adding twist to the fiber while it is in a jumbled state (in other words, in a woolen-preparation) is one key aspect of woolen-spun yarns. Have you ever pet a puppy in that super soft spot at the base of its ears? The difference between woolen and the worsted yarn is that woolen yarn is spun by carding fibers. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. July 2019 This means that they'll have very clear stitch definition, as opposed to woollen spun yarns which have a softer stitch definition. Loved the first video, and your video was brilliant, thank you so much. This helped me understand the difference and will help me make better choices when picking a yarn to knit certain patterns. The one on the left is woolen spun, and the one on the right is worsted spun. February 2023 I have been knitting for awhile and have yet to use the yarn recommended by a designer for various reasons. The rub rollernext turns the sliver into roving and adds a false twist. Cheers and Thanks. Voila! The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. The best article ever on this subject. February 2021 However, there are differences between worsted weight yarns and woolen yarns as well. September 2020 Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. If youre really comfortable with doing a lot of math, making adjustments on the fly, and pulling out your work if you decide you dont like how it works, then feel free to experiment with a yarn of a different gauge. Worsted wools are better at keeping out the wind and rain, but woolen wools are warmer, because they are full of air which acts as insulation. I wonder if it is related to the tendancy of woollen-spuns to bloom? Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. A 100% wool sweater will look different from a sweater made from linen or bamboo fiber. So how do you spin yarn to be either worsted or woolen? Great article, thank you for this very detailed account , I learned so much ! Bees My substitutions have been just based intuition and have often resulted in less than desired results. Wrap your yarn firmly, but not tightly, around the item for at least a few inches, and then set it down next to the ruler. I guess I thought it referred to the ply, like 4-ply. Worsted wool can be made up into many different cloths, which may be appropriate for suits, jacket and/or trousers. February 2018 December 2021 I made a sweater that is just too heavy and was hoping to be able to make it in a lighter weight yarn. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. After being spun into yarn, our worsted-spun yarns are dyed in the skein. If you ever created your own cord or unwound a hank of yarn, then that's the exact same process. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. April 2022 Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? Many people ask us about the process and the type of yarn we produce. I learned about yarn substitution the hard way. Please confirm you want to block this member. Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. This is why many stranded colorwork knitters prefer to use woolen-spun yarns; because of their bloom, different colors end up blending together at the edges for a painterly effect. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Great visuals and explanations. Color. Worsted-spun yarns are dense and strong. That wasnt the silhouette I was aiming for. However, you may visit Cookie Settings to provide controlled consent. So far, all the colors have been created by dyeing the fiber in 16 vibrant solids, then blending them, two or . May 2017 I really appreciate you using Tom Hardy as an analogy. Flywheel is light and airy and lends itself well to both lace projects and warm, cozy sweaters. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. These two spinning techniques are also the basic, standardized methods employed in commercial yarn production though, as noted in Knitting in the Old Way by Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts and Deborah Robson, more and more spinning mills today follow a hand spinning approach to commercial spinning, adapting processing and spinning techniques to enhance the natural characteristics of a particular fiber or to achieve a yarn well-suited for specific kinds of knitted fabric. Your email address will not be published. This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. That means theyre good for colorwork and lace projects where you really want your stitches to pop. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge, Shoes for Showing Off Handknit Socks: Six Suggestions. Thanks! The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. Thank you!!!! The simple, pure honesty of her yarns, paired with a buttery softness and delicate texture, enchanted me. Combed top can be used to make yarns for items that are still going to be warm, like a hat, it just will not have the insulating ability of a yarn spun woolen, but will be stronger than a woolen spun yarn. Woolen spun is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). It is named after the small English village of Worstead, in the county of Norfolk and this village was a center for manufacturing in the twelfth century. What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. Woolen and Worsted yarns. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". This is what is meant by the gorgeous phenomenon of blooming. I sort of knew all of this but your explanation and illustrations pulled my knowledge all together. Worsted-spun yarns are known for being more durable than their woolen-spun counterparts. December 2019 The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". Case in point, hobby lobbys I love this yarn and their soft secret are both worsted, but one is 4 ply and the other 3 ply. You may be wondering by now if one is better than the other. Worsted yarn, made in the USA. Be sure not to violate boundaries, too. Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. A drumcarder can also be used. Semi-woolen is when combed fibers are spun in a way where the twist enters the fibers, usually when spinning from the fold. The pattern called for an expensive, fingering-weight, linen yarn. April 2014 May 2015 Excellent article great swatch/photo examples too. Depending on their knowledge of spinning and yarns, it gets a bit tricky to articulate sometimes. November 2016 You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. The semi-woolen swatch weighed 4.5 g versus 4.3 g for the woolen-spun - not a huge difference in a swatch of this size. 4.5 sts / inch on size US 8. 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This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. One method is not better or worse than the other just different. And I really appreciate the swatches. If you're looking for something that's super warm but light, a woolen spun may be better. Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. Worsted is used to describe the thickness of a yarn (worsted weight), one way fibers are aligned before becoming yarn (worsted preparation), and how twist enters fiber to become yarn (worsted drafting).

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worsted spun vs woolen spun